The Pantanal is a vast wetland. In the rainy season, it is nearly completely flooded, while in the dry season, it is not suppose to rain. Unfortunately, that´s not always true. We had just arrived when it started raining. It poured and became cold (down to nine degrees). It meant several of our activities were canceled. But more importantly, our truck could not leave. Because it was too heavy for a few last bridges on the road into the lodge, it took another track. But after the rains the track became impassible. As a result, we have spent two extra nights here, plus tonight. Hopefully, we can leave tomorrow. But this puts us three days behind schedule.
In the meantime, we have time to explore the area around the lodge. I have been able to take pictures of 50 different birds. We also saw a few mammals, plus an anaconda. I also rode a horse. The weather has now warmed up again, so we can use the pool and it drying the track. Trying to stay patient and take what comes.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Brazilian Drives
In Brazil (as in all of South America), things don´t always go as planned. Our truck arrived one day late. Oh well, we had a day of rest in Porto Velho. Then it was three days drive to get to Pocone, gateway to the Pantanal. Brazil is a huge country and we can only drive an average of 70 kmp.
Tomorrow (July 23), we go to to Pantanal for three days and two nights. This is a huge wetland area of Brazil (larger than several European countries). I hope to tell you more when its done.
Tomorrow (July 23), we go to to Pantanal for three days and two nights. This is a huge wetland area of Brazil (larger than several European countries). I hope to tell you more when its done.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Ferry Travels
The only way to go from Manaus to Porto Velho is by ferry. We left late on Tuesday night and arrived on Saturday at 3pm. It took that long to do the 1000 mile journey. Throughout this time is no bridge of any sort and very few towns. Just trees and trees. It revealed how vast this country and the Amazon basin really is.
During our time on the Ferry, we could simply relax, reading books, playing games, watching the jungle go by. We slept in hammocks on the second deck. There were about a hundred of us, most of them locals. As a result, we could interact with some locals, but language is a great barrier--very few Brazilians know English and my Portugese is worse then my Spanish. (I can barely say thank-you properly). These Ferry Days were relaxing, even it wasn´t a fancy cruise ship.
Our truck left the morning we went to the jungle becuase it had to go on a barge. The barge is much slower than the ferry. Unfortunately, it is taking its time. We arrived in Porto Velho on Saturday afternoon, but the truck is not yet here. So we can´t proceed until it arrives. Hopefully, that will be tomorrow. In the meantime, we wait.
During our time on the Ferry, we could simply relax, reading books, playing games, watching the jungle go by. We slept in hammocks on the second deck. There were about a hundred of us, most of them locals. As a result, we could interact with some locals, but language is a great barrier--very few Brazilians know English and my Portugese is worse then my Spanish. (I can barely say thank-you properly). These Ferry Days were relaxing, even it wasn´t a fancy cruise ship.
Our truck left the morning we went to the jungle becuase it had to go on a barge. The barge is much slower than the ferry. Unfortunately, it is taking its time. We arrived in Porto Velho on Saturday afternoon, but the truck is not yet here. So we can´t proceed until it arrives. Hopefully, that will be tomorrow. In the meantime, we wait.
Jungle Journey
From Manaus, a city of nearly 2 million, located on the Amazon, we set out for a three day, two night adventure in the Amazon jungle. But before we did that, we made a short boat ride to the . At Manaus, two tributaries join together to form the Amazon. The one from the north is clear water, while the one from the south is very dirty, due to its sand content. When these two rivers meet, the waters do not quickly merge, but remain separate for many miles. And so we could see the very clear division of the river: one side clear and the other side dirty.
We arrived at our Jungle Lodge, which was 80 percent under water. That´s because the Amazon river was at its highest level since 1953. The banks were overflowing. Thankfully the building for our sleeping was high enough from the water, while a new eating area was made. From the Lodge we made several walks through the jungle, watching out for spiders, snakes and other small creatures. Our guide explained the flora and created, with his machetie, a blowdart--including the darts--though no poison. On the water, we tried to fish for pirrana, and at night searched out for alligators--we did find them. It was a very enjoyable time.
We arrived at our Jungle Lodge, which was 80 percent under water. That´s because the Amazon river was at its highest level since 1953. The banks were overflowing. Thankfully the building for our sleeping was high enough from the water, while a new eating area was made. From the Lodge we made several walks through the jungle, watching out for spiders, snakes and other small creatures. Our guide explained the flora and created, with his machetie, a blowdart--including the darts--though no poison. On the water, we tried to fish for pirrana, and at night searched out for alligators--we did find them. It was a very enjoyable time.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Roraima Trek
After an overnight bus trip, six of us arrived at Sainte Elaine, near the Brazil border. This was the base from which we did a six day, five night trek to Roraima. I borrowed a packback from one of my fellow travelers. We had to carry our personal stuff that we needed for six days, but not the tent nor food. The guide and two porters took care of that gear. They also cooked for us and we ate very well.
Roraima is a high plateau, jutting over a 1000 meters over the Grand Sabana (savannah). This isolated flat mountain top has very unique species of plants and animals, like a black frog that only crawls and does not jump. Its landscape is very barren, almost moon like in quality. It is other worldly. (It was the inspiration for Sir Coylan Doyle´s The Lost World).
The first day involved driving to the trail head. After lunch we headed off. It was about a 12 km hike to camp. The next day we did another 10km to the base of the plateau. This involved an elevation gain of 800 meters. The third day was the actual ascent. Though only 2.5 km it took four hours to do. That´s because we had to go up 900 meters, with some very steep and slippery sections. Once on top, we camped under a ledge that provided protection from the weather. It can be very rainy around Roraima, especially at this time of year. But fortunately, the rains while we hiked was minimal.
We stayed two nights on the top. So the fourth day was spent just exploring the landscape of this unique ecosystem. In between the clouds, we got some views of the cliff face and savannah below.
Day five involved a long hike, returning over the same territory we had covered on days 2 and 3. Though downhill might seem easy, you had to very careful about your footing. As a result, it took just as long. Day six repeated day one. We finished by lunch time, tired and a little worn, but thoroughly pleased that we had done the Roraima Trek.
Thankfully the next day was a chill out day in Sainte Elaine, where we could do laundry and catch up on this blog and my dairy. Tomorrow we cross the border into Brazil.
Roraima is a high plateau, jutting over a 1000 meters over the Grand Sabana (savannah). This isolated flat mountain top has very unique species of plants and animals, like a black frog that only crawls and does not jump. Its landscape is very barren, almost moon like in quality. It is other worldly. (It was the inspiration for Sir Coylan Doyle´s The Lost World).
The first day involved driving to the trail head. After lunch we headed off. It was about a 12 km hike to camp. The next day we did another 10km to the base of the plateau. This involved an elevation gain of 800 meters. The third day was the actual ascent. Though only 2.5 km it took four hours to do. That´s because we had to go up 900 meters, with some very steep and slippery sections. Once on top, we camped under a ledge that provided protection from the weather. It can be very rainy around Roraima, especially at this time of year. But fortunately, the rains while we hiked was minimal.
We stayed two nights on the top. So the fourth day was spent just exploring the landscape of this unique ecosystem. In between the clouds, we got some views of the cliff face and savannah below.
Day five involved a long hike, returning over the same territory we had covered on days 2 and 3. Though downhill might seem easy, you had to very careful about your footing. As a result, it took just as long. Day six repeated day one. We finished by lunch time, tired and a little worn, but thoroughly pleased that we had done the Roraima Trek.
Thankfully the next day was a chill out day in Sainte Elaine, where we could do laundry and catch up on this blog and my dairy. Tomorrow we cross the border into Brazil.
Angel Falls
Angel Falls is not only a wonderous sight to beyond, it is also an adventure to get there. That´s because the world´s highest waterfall is very isolated. We had to take a 5 passenger Cesna plane to get to Canaima, the base village. This flight took just over an hour. Then it is a four hour boat ride to get to the base of the falls. This is done in a long narrow motor boat, holding ten people plus gear. This can only be done when the water levels are high enough to get through the river. Even though this is the rainy season, we still had to go through rapids to get to our destintation. This meant getting wet. It was like white water rafting. Along the way, you can see the high plateau on the right side of the river. Many waterfalls come off the plateau into the lower level.
Our first day then consisted of getting near the Falls. On the second day, we hiked a trail to get to the base of the Falls, where we not only got good views, once the clouds allowed it, but we also swam in the river pool at the base. After lunch, during which it poured buckets, we headed back to the base village. On the third day, we enjoyed some time around a much smaller waterfall, close to the village, walking behind the falls, as well as jumping off the cliff into the water. That afternoon, we took the small plane back to where we staying with the overland vehicle.
Our first day then consisted of getting near the Falls. On the second day, we hiked a trail to get to the base of the Falls, where we not only got good views, once the clouds allowed it, but we also swam in the river pool at the base. After lunch, during which it poured buckets, we headed back to the base village. On the third day, we enjoyed some time around a much smaller waterfall, close to the village, walking behind the falls, as well as jumping off the cliff into the water. That afternoon, we took the small plane back to where we staying with the overland vehicle.
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